In Candaba, Pampanga, a quiet effort is underway to secure the future of one of the Philippines’ most distinctive fermented foods. Burong isda—a fermented rice and fish mixture known locally as tag-ilo—embodies the province’s vibrant food culture. Recognizing its cultural and economic significance, the Department of Science and Technology (DOST), in collaboration with Pampanga State Agricultural University (PSAU), embarked on a SalikLakbay—a journey of discovery and learning—to explore the traditional practices of burong makers.
The Push for Philippine National Standards
The initiative aims to propose the creation of Philippine National Standards (PNS) for burong isda, ensuring its quality, safety, and market competitiveness. Currently, the lack of a PNS poses challenges for micro, small, and medium enterprises (MSMEs) in maintaining consistent quality, meeting food safety standards, and accessing broader markets. Establishing a PNS will not only address these issues but also empower local producers to thrive while preserving a cherished culinary tradition. During the visit, the team gained valuable insights into the intricate production practices of burong isda and the challenges faced by artisans. The makers generously shared their knowledge, as well as samples of their flavorful creations, fostering a deeper appreciation for this unique heritage food.
The Women Behind the Jars
The story of burong isda is also a story of women’s empowerment. In Pampanga and Nueva Ecija, fermentation takes the shape of burong isda—a tart, pungent blend of rice and fish often paired with vegetables and fried fare. But this dish is more than just food; it is cultural memory preserved in every jar. The DOST initiative underscores a commitment to uplifting grassroots innovations, safeguarding cultural heritage, and advancing sustainable practices in food production. The creation of a PNS for burong isda represents a significant step toward empowering local communities and celebrating the art of fermentation as a cornerstone of Filipino culinary identity.
Beyond Burong: A Wider Heritage Revival
The standardization effort is part of a broader revival of Filipino fermentation heritage. In Bulacan, the provincial government has launched Project S.A.S.A. to preserve and promote sukang paombong, the traditional nipa palm vinegar. The initiative supports nipa farmers and vinegar producers through training and marketing, recognizing that the product’s identity is inseparable from the people who harvest the sap and ferment the vinegar. In the Cordillera, the Mangan Taku Food Fair highlights indigenous cuisine prepared through time-honored methods such as smoking, fermentation, and curing. And in Cotabato City, researchers are characterizing lactic acid bacteria from tapay, a traditional fermented rice snack originating from the Maranao and Maguindanaon communities, to better understand and preserve its starter culture.
Balancing Science and Tradition
The challenge—and the opportunity—lies in balancing scientific standardization with cultural continuity. The DOST’s work with burong isda makers is not about replacing traditional methods but about giving them a framework for quality and safety that allows the craft to reach more tables without losing its character. As the agency notes, the creation of a PNS represents a significant step toward empowering local communities and celebrating the art of fermentation. In a country where fermentation has long shaped how communities preserve food, transform harvests, and pass on indigenous knowledge, that celebration is long overdue.
